stretching the chassis approx 13mm this van will have quite a long
wheelbase. This conversion may not be a wise choice if you have sharp
curves on your layout.
|If you have already completed the
previous conversion "Removing the brake
platform from a Fleischmann Magic Train box van" then you have a
few spare parts left over. This conversion is a logical way to use these
up and have another individual model not in the standard Magic Train
This conversion is more complex than the previous one, though the stage
of adding windows in the sides is purely optional. If you feel adventurous
enough to try a new skill, then add the windows. If not, the stretched van
is fine as it is.
Materials you will need:
- 1x Fleischmann Magic Train box van (2450 or similar)
- Leftovers from previous kitbash
Tools you will need:
- 1x brake platform (Fleischmann spare part #122501)
- Plasticard for new roof
- Plastic strip for chassis extension
- Steel rule, 150mm or 300mm long
- Razor saw and mitre box (make sure the mitre box is wide enough to
take the model - minimum 50mm)
- Rail cutters (Xuron or similar - see references below)
- Modelling knife with plain and chisel blades
- Flat files - large and small (called "needle" files)
- Liquid polystyrene glue and small paint brush (size 0 or 00)
- Powdered graphite (used to lubricate door locks)
- 1mm diameter drill and pin-vice or mini electrical-drill
Difficulty rating: Suitable for
beginners (version without windows), suitable for those with minimal
experience (version with windows).
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The first step is to break the model down in to its constituent parts.
As the model is mostly clipped together this is straightforward. You will
also need the spare steps, chassis and roof sections from the previous
The chassis and roof need to be lengthened to accommodate the second brake platform.
Carve off the roof ribs with a chisel-blade in a modelling knife. File the
end of the existing roof and the spare section so that they fit snugly
together then glue and leave them to dry. Once dry (overnight), sand the
roof smooth with 600 grit wet-n-dry paper.
2 ends of the wagon body are not quite the same.
Trim the 2 vertical end-braces flush with the bottom of the floor.
Square-up the ends of the bodywork on this end and widen the opening on
the other end to accept the end of the chassis - the gap on the body is
narrower on one end than the other.
the lugs on the underside of the body which held the floor in place.
stages (with a yellow background) are entirely optional and should not be
attempted by a first time "kitbasher".
a small drill (approx. 1mm but size is not too critical) drill a series of
holes where the vents on each side of the wagon are. The holes should be inside
the vertical braces and above one of the joins in the wooden sides. There
is also a natural frame at the top.
Do not attempt to drill the holes up to the bracing you will not be
able to make a neat job. Make the holes INSIDE then open the hole OUTWARD
with a modelling knife and a small file.
This takes quite a lot of time and patience.
is what you are trying to achieve. Once the hole is opened up to this
stage, it is time to add a frame.
Add a frame made from 4 pieces of Strip styrene (Evergreen 0.5 x 2mm or
similar). This fits on top of the side boards and on the inside of the
wagon framing. See photo at top of article.
The Magic Train chassis has truss-rods and a brake reservoir, along
with a "tank" of some description. The tank and truss-rods get
in the way of the next stage, so remove them. Carefully use a modelling
knife to remove the truss-rods, being careful not to dig in to the sides
of the frame. The only difficult bit here is where the truss-rod runs
alongside the brake cylinder. Just take you time and it will be fine.
The "tank" is a little more difficult. Using a pair of
rail-nippers nibble away at the tank until is is almost level with the
floor. Then use the chisel-blade in the modelling knife to smooth off any
remaining plastic so that it is flush.
Firstly remove the metal weight and place to one side - slice the
plastic "rivets" off with the modelling knife and lift it off
Now place the chassis in the mitre-box and cut through the chassis
right next to the brake cylinder.
Refit the brake platforms on both end sections of the chassis. Dry-fit
them in place on the body and you should find that the section cut out
from the other chassis fits neatly in the gap.
In this underside view of the finished vehicle you can see how the 2
sections of the frame and the "filler piece" fit together.
you are happy that all is OK, replace the metal weight in the gap in the
chassis (secure with some glue like Yoo-Hoo), refit the chassis on the
body and run a small amount of liquid
polystyrene glue with a small brush along the join between body and
chassis. It only takes a very small amount of glue to hold the body in
place. The glue shows as "shiny" marks in the picture.
Be careful not to get glue in the coupler mechanism. To be safe, drop
some powdered graphite in to the coupler mechanism and keep moving it for
a few minutes.
Add the handrails you carved off of the original kitbash on to the
corners which didn't have them.
|That is about it. If you have been
careful you could use the wagon as it is, or you can repaint it before
putting it on your layout.
It took approx. 2 hours to do this conversion (without painting),
a good introduction to "level 2" kitbashing.