it is not possible to convert the chassis of this loco to 16.5mm
gauge, it is
necessary to use an H0 (or 00) scale replacement. Consider this extra expense
before attempting this conversion.
|FAMA, KISS and ROCO have all produced a range of 0m models over the years
from the same moulds. All of these are now discontinued but are still sometimes
to be found second-hand.
Although the ROCO model uses the same basic
mouldings, it has been pointed out that the model is slightly different.
This conversion can only be guaranteed on the FAMA / KISS versions of the
This model is of a Schöma prototype from 1960. Two were supplied to the Alsen'sche
Cement Works at Itzehoe, north of Hamburg. They were built to 860mm gauge,
had 230hp Deutz diesel engines and bore the numbers 11 and 12. In
1976, the engines were converted to metre gauge by Schöma and sold to the
Furka Oberalp in Switzerland.
This loco is
very similar to some of those used on the narrow gauge lines on the islands of Wangerooge and Spiekeroog off of Germany's North Sea coast.
The quality of the moulding is generally good, and apart from needing
replacement thinner handrails it is a good model to start working
This article details how to convert this model to 16.5mm gauge to be usable
with other 0e models.
Materials you will need:
Tools you will need:
- Assorted sicknesses of Plasticard - 20thou, 40thou.
- Steel rule, 150mm or 300mm long
- Rail cutters (Xuron or similar - see references below)
- Modelling knife with plain and chisel blades
- Flat files - large and small (called "needle" files)
- Liquid polystyrene glue and small paint brush (size 0 or 00)
- 1.5mm diameter drill and pin-vice or mini electrical-drill
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|Difficulty rating: Intermediate.
Note that this article does not cover every last detail of this
conversion, it is assumed that "intermediate" modellers would be
able to work out some of the smaller details for themselves.
Although this conversion only takes 1-2 hours, the work is
rather "brutal" and not for the faint-hearted.
first problem is how to get the shell off.
You will find some coffee-stirrers or match-sticks of use.
There are 3 "lugs" on the frame, 2 on the left side, 1 on the
right (assuming the long-hood is front and you are looking from the cab
Carefully insert a screwdriver in between the motor-block and the side
frames. As you lever the sideframes apart, insert a coffee-stirrer or
match-stick in the
gap to stop it closing up.
The chassis is a tight fit but take your time and you can gently lever
it out of the body.
here for a close-up view of removing the shell.
to the construction of the chassis block it is not possible to convert it
to 16.5mm gauge so it is necessary to find a replacement. The large
cutaway on the left of the frame is so that the cab is
kept completely empty. The replacement chassis might not fit so well and
may obscure part of the cab.
Your replacement chassis will need:
- Wheelbase of 60mm +/- 1mm
- Wheel diameter of 19mm +/- 1mm
- It doesn't matter if there are intermediate wheels as these can be
- The chassis cannot be longer than 87mm - but that doesn't mean you
can't saw the ends off to make it 87mm.
making some enquiries, a potential donor chassis was identified. The
Bachmann Branch Lines (British) 00-scale, Great Western 8750 class Pannier tank has
a wheel size and wheelbase which is an almost perfect match for the Tm 2/2 - if you remove the centre set of wheels.
This is a nice little loco and almost seems a shame to throw the body
The chassis is only gear-driven to the rear axle, the coupling rods
transferring the drive. However, as the chassis is hidden, this is not
really a problem as none of the rods are visible once the model is on the
Catalogue number 32.201, 32.202, etc., available on-line from a number of UK model
you start cutting the loco to pieces, verify that all is well and that it
runs OK. You will not be able to claim a replacement if it is defective
after you have cut it apart.
|To remove the body, lever-out the
coupler pockets with a small screwdriver. This will reveal two screws, one
behind each buffer beam. Remove these and the body will simply lift off.
taking the body off, remove the small metal weight under the circuit board
- already done in this view. This will fit in under the cab keeping the
Then pull off the backhead detail, which is still in place to the left
of the motor in this view.
This is the "point of no return", after this, the
modifications to the chassis are not reversible!
Bachmann's credit, the model has jointed coupling rods - which is awkward
for us, we cannot just remove the centre set of wheels otherwise there
would be no way to transfer the drive to the other set.
Firstly remove the crank pins from the middle set of wheels.
Then remove the keeper-plate from the bottom and drop out the centre
set of wheels.
Using a pair of wire cutters, cut off the rim of the wheel. Clean up
the resulting crank with a file. This is not visible in the finished model
so you do not need to be too tidy.
Using a pair of side cutters (such as Zuron rail cutters), remove all
the extra detail from the chassis and keeper-plate and the
current-collectors that rubbed on the centre set of wheels.
Reassemble the chassis and you should have something that looks like
the view above.
the side cutters, remove the original centre-buffer couplers. Then, using
a razor-saw, and using the edge of the coupler opening as a guide saw
through the bodywork.
Cut right through the old backplate of the coupler (A
in the picture) and the bodyshell (B
in the picture) down to the level of the coupler opening (arrow in
a square bottom to these openings is difficult. Fortunately we need to
attach a couple of pads of Plasticard for fixing the chassis too.
These pads need to be about 1mm hick (approx. 40 thou) and 11mm square
to fit in the bottom of the openings.
Dry-fit the pads and fit the chassis in place to ensure that everything
is level. You may have to do a small amount of filing or trimming to get
it to fit.
either thin pieces of Plasticard or filing, adjust the height of the end
of the chassis so that it is in line with the brace across the chassis -
as in the view to the left.
The exact height is not critical, but ensure that the chassis is level,
otherwise the loco won't sit on the track level.
You can also see in this view that the rods and cranks are easily
clear of the inside of the body shell.
Once the glue has dried thoroughly (at least overnight), drill the new
Plasticard pads for the screws that held the original body on the Bachmann
|About all that is needed now is to
screw the chassis in place and fit the couplers of your choice. I found
that Kadee #5s were at the right height if fitted to the bottom of the
buffer beam. I used some 40 thou Plasticard to fill in the opening in the
existing buffer beam and made a "platform" to fit the coupler to
on the bottom. See photo at top of article.
The original Bachmann loco had extra weight in the body and during the
conversion the ballast weight from the chassis was also discarded.
Therefore the loco is rather light and needs some additional weight. There
is plenty of space inside the body for additional weight.
comparison, here is a Fleischmann Magic Train Deutz diesel
alongside the finished conversion.
The Schöma loco is much larger, although it has to be said that the
Deutz loco is a model of a small prototype.